Beaches and Seafood: Conil, Caños de Meca and Zahara

Between Conil de la Frontera and Zahara de los Atunes, the Costa de la Luz in Cádiz strings together long fine-sand beaches, cliffs and villages that have lived from tuna fishing for centuries. This is the Atlantic: the water is cooler than in the Mediterranean, tides are noticeable and the wind decides many beach days.

Conil de la Frontera

Los Bateles is the town beach, right below the old centre and with full facilities. To the north, La Fontanilla and Fuente del Gallo sit beside low cliffs, and beyond them are the Calas de Roche, small coves tucked between cliffs. The coves shrink a lot at high tide, so check the tide table before heading down.

South of Conil, El Palmar beach (in the municipality of Vejer de la Frontera) is long, open and very popular for surfing.

Los Caños de Meca and Cape Trafalgar

Los Caños de Meca (Barbate) stretches beside Cape Trafalgar, off which the 1805 battle was fought. The lighthouse and dunes of the cape offer one of the best-known sunsets in the province. In summer parking is scarce, so arrive early or take the bus.

Between Caños and Barbate lies La Breña y Marismas del Barbate Natural Park, a pine forest on top of cliffs with the Torre del Tajo, an old watchtower overlooking the Strait. If you are interested, see our guide to the watchtowers of Cádiz.

Zahara de los Atunes

Zahara de los Atunes has a wide, open beach that runs south. The village grew up around the almadraba tuna fishery, and the remains of the old almadraba castle-palace still stand. Further towards Tarifa is Bolonia beach, with its dune and the Roman ruins of Baelo Claudia.

What to eat

• Almadraba bluefin tuna: the almadraba is a traditional fishing method that catches tuna during their spring migration. In that season Conil, Barbate and Zahara hold tuna routes and food festivals.
• Mojama and salted fish: Barbate is famous for mojama, tuna that is salted and air-dried.
• Fried fish and shrimp fritters (tortillitas de camarones): two classics of the Cádiz coast.
• Retinto beef: a native cattle breed raised inland in the La Janda area.
• Wine: Sherry from Jerez and manzanilla from Sanlúcar go well with fish.

Getting around

A car is the easiest way to explore the area. The A-48 links Cádiz with Conil and Vejer, and a coastal road connects Conil, El Palmar, Los Caños de Meca and Barbate. By bus, Transportes Generales Comes links Conil, Los Caños de Meca, Barbate and Zahara. Frequencies change a lot between summer and winter, so check the timetables on its website.

Practical tips

• Check the wind forecast: in a strong levante (easterly wind), open beaches get uncomfortable with blowing sand.
• Check the tides if you are going to coves or walking along the shore beneath cliffs.
• June and September combine good weather with fewer people than July and August. For almadraba tuna, spring is the best time.

To combine the beach with the interior, read our route through the white villages of Cádiz.

Official sources

• Transportes Generales Comes — bus timetables in Cádiz province
• Junta de Andalucía — Visitor’s Window (La Breña y Marismas del Barbate Natural Park)